Technical Specifications of Infrared Halogen Lamps for PET Stretch Blow Molding

September 5, 2026

Getting PET Blow Molding Right with Infrared Halogen Heating

When you’re working with PET stretch blow molding, it’s all about a delicate balance. You need enough heat to hit that glass transition point, but if you overdo it, you’re just melting your preforms. That’s where our shortwave infrared halogen lamps come in. These aren’t your typical heaters. They’re basically high-density energy bursts designed to keep your cycle times fast and your production moving.

The Nitty-Gritty on Power and Voltage

Most of the machines out there run on 230V or 400V. If you go with a 400V tube, you can push more wattage—usually between 2000W and 3000W per lamp—without needing huge, bulky wires. It keeps the setup clean. Now, if you’re using a 300mm tube at high wattage, you’re dealing with a serious amount of concentrated heat.**Be careful here.**This stuff is aggressive. If your cooling blowers aren’t up to the task, you’ll end up baking your machine frame, and nobody wants that.

Quartz and Quick Swaps

We use high-purity quartz glass for these lamps because it can take the hit. In a real factory, these lamps are clicking on and off constantly. The quartz handles that thermal shock without cracking. We also add a special coating to some of our tubes. It shifts the emission spectrum so the heat actually sinks into the PET wall instead of just scorching the surface. As for the electrical side, we stick with R7s or Sk15 connectors. They’re the gold standard for a reason: they make life easy. When a lamp burns out, you don’t need to get out the soldering iron. You just pull the old one, slide in the new one, and lock it in.Done in seconds.

What Happens in the Real World

In the field, these lamps are great for slashing preheat times. Because they use shortwave radiation, the energy goes straight into the plastic. But there’s a catch. Halogen lamps take a beating when they’re running 24/7. Over time, you’ll notice they don’t glow quite as bright as they used to. My advice? Don’t wait for them to fail. Set up a regular replacement schedule. It’s the only way to make sure your bottle walls stay consistent and you don’t end up with a pile of scrap.